Fierce Family Trio Makes Some Serious Riesling

Hugh and Kathy Shields along with daughter Kerry are DuBrul vineyard and the Cote Bonneville winery.  They do everything (even the website), and still somehow have time to travel the market and partake in press.  Wine Spectator readers have seen a lot of Kerry Shields this year… and rightfully so.  Not only do these three produce a serious Riesling, they are more known for their Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet blends. 

Hugh and Kathy Shields planted the DuBrul vineyard in 1992 which previously was an apple orchard.  Hugh, a part-time Orthopedic Surgeon, is the vineyard master and spends all of his time on site.  The steep south-facing slopes have a basalt subsoil underneath thin loees over alluvial fan deposits and volcanic ash.  Terroir and soil is the magic here.  All vines are planted on their own roots (no threat of Phylloxera) and produce small clusters with small berries. DuBrul has won Washington State Vineyard of the Year 2007 and 2009.  The famous fruit is sold to numerous clients, but the best goes into their Cote Bonneville estate wines.

While the bottles are labeled Yakima Valley, DuBrul vineyard is actually located in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA.  Rattlesnake Hills is entirely contained within Yakima Valley AVA which is entirely contained within Columbia Valley AVA.  Vineyards are on the southern slopes of the Rattlesnake Mountain and offer elevations from 850 feet (259 m) to 3,085 feet, the highest points in Yakima Valley.  

Cote Bonneville winery was founded in 2001 by Hugh and Kathy.  Now daughter Kerry Shields has taken over operations starting in 2005.  Kerry graduated from Northwestern University with a degree in Enginerring and then spent 2 years in Italy working in the development program for Fiat.  Returning to wine, she graduated UC Davis with a Masters of Viticulture and Enology and spend time with Joseph Phelps, Tahbik, Folio, Robery Mondavi, and Tapiz.  Kerry, at her young age, is the new face of Cote Bonneville.

The Wine:

Appearance is clear, medium, and lemon.

The nose on this wine is really aromatic, as expected with Riesling (medium plus intensity).  She first hits you in the nose with petrol and then slowly changing over to mineral notes of stone. and smoke  Behind all the minerality there’s nice green and red apple, apricot, floral notes and a slight spiciness.

What this wine lacks in alcohol (10%) does not lack in body (medium plus) or flavor intensity (medium plus).  Not a acidic as her counterparts in Germany, but it’s still there (medium plus). The old-vine Riesling produces beautiful flavours reminiscent of the nose – petrol, stone, smoke, apples, apricot, and florals.  The mouthfeel, texture, and balance is spot-on.

An expertly made wine from the cream of the crop vineyard in Washington State.  For $26 in Pennsylvania, I’ll drink this all day, and for the next 7 years.  Only 217 cases produced.